Sadly, our time in Jasper is as limited as the temperature: early the next morning we’re on a bus, headed to Lake Louise via the Icefields Parkway, a 230km ribbon of asphalt that unites Jasper and Banff national parks. Numerous glaciers line the Parkway, including the Athabasca Glacier, which we visit on an Ice Explorer snowcat with massive wheels, the only vehicle that can make the trip. It’s snowing when we reach the glacier’s centre, surrounded by the 11 of the highest peaks in the Rockies.
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